Historically, durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) finishes have been used to help materials stay dry, clean and durable over time. Some formulations have contained per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), a group of chemicals characterised by their high persistence. As a result, PFAS can remain in the environment for extended periods, bioaccumulate in humans and ecosystems, and have been associated with adverse health effects when exposure exceeds established thresholds.

Despite the momentum towards PFAS-based alternatives, several challenges remain. First, many currently available alternatives do not match the oil repellency and long-term durability of PFAS-based finishes. Second, there is currently no unified approach to assessing performance, and existing protocols do not always reflect real-world use, making meaningful comparisons between solutions difficult. Third, current benchmarks no longer reflect the capabilities of today’s PFAS alternative solutions; updated benchmarks are needed to identify leading solutions and understand performance gaps, to help inform R&D and scale-up efforts. Finally, as the industry works to identify suitable alternatives, it is essential to carefully assess their environmental and health impacts to minimise the risk of regrettable substitution, where one problematic substance is replaced by another without sufficient understanding.

To address these core challenges, Project DW(O)R-X will benchmark nine PFAS alternative solutions, ranging from early-stage innovations to established chemistries, across three dimensions: performance, environmental impact, and cost. To support this, project partners have developed a performance framework designed to better reflect real-world use by incorporating multi-condition testing and custom stains relevant to sportswear and outerwear, including soil, sunscreen, and sweat.

This approach will enable the group to test a performance framework built on combining various standardised methods. The insights generated can help establish a common reference point for the industry: brands and mills can use it to inform internal decision-making, while chemical companies can rely on it to substantiate performance claims.

The project brings together an exciting group of industry stakeholders, including leading brands adidas and C&A, manufacturing partners Shahi Exports, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials and Wujiang Fuhua Fabric Co., alongside technology providers Archroma, Daikin Chemicals Europe, Dow, Dryfiber, Jintex, Lamoral Coatings, Pulcra Chemicals, Rudolf, and vandeyk.tech. Performance testing will be conducted by SGS.

“The challenge for the whole industry isn’t just phasing out PFAS: it’s ensuring we don’t replace it with something equally concerning that we understand less well. Right now, brands and mills are navigating this transition without updated benchmarks to compare these alternatives. Project DW(O)R-X gives them the data they need: performance testing that reflects real-world use, comprehensive impact assessment, and a better understanding of cost structures. This is how we enable informed decisions and genuine progress toward safer chemistry at scale.” Katrin Ley, Managing Director at Fashion for Good.

“We have not allowed the intentional use of PFAS in our products for many years. However, phasing out PFAS across the sector requires coordinated action across the value chain. A responsible transition depends on shared changes in manufacturing practices, supported by accessible and reliable alternatives that are understood and available at scale. Project DW(O)RX provides a rigorous benchmarking framework to evaluate alternatives across performance, environmental impact and cost. By collaborating with other brands and partners, we are contributing to a shared knowledge base that supports progress towards safer chemistry, while maintaining the quality and durability our customers expect.” C&A External Affairs

To learn more about the project, click here:

Project DW(O)R-X